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  4. Manufacturing of textiles, hides/skins and leather 039
Närbild på Svanenmärkta jeans med tydlig Nordic Swan Ecolabel logo

Manufacturing of textiles, hides/skins and leather 039

Nordic Swan Ecolabel clothes and textiles has documented good quality and must have a reduced environmental impact throughout the life cycle of the textile. UN’s International Labour Conventions (ILO) on workers’ rights must be complied with in the production.
The requirements include products of textile fibers, hides and leather. Clothing, accessories, home textiles and textile fibers, yarn and fabrics for clothing or furnishings textiles can be certified with the Nordic Swan Ecolabel.

Examples

Clothing: Sweater, dress, trousers, skirt, jeans, shirt, top, jacket, workwear, uniforms, socks, and underwear.

Accessories: Hat, cap, scarf, belt, bag, handbag, and backpack.

Home textiles: Duvet, pillow, towels, bed linen, curtains, tablecloths and upholstery fabrics.

Baby products made of textiles that also contain other materials such as strollers and car seats are covered by the requirements for Baby products with textiles.

The requirements include:

  • Use of fibers that are either organic, recycled or based on renewable resources and meet specific environmental requirements.
  • Environmental and health properties of all chemicals used in the textile production. Among other things, Nordic Ecolabelling sets strict requirements to substances that are classified carcinogenic, toxic to reproduction or can damage genetic material. Identified and potential endocrine disruptors on up-to-date lists from EU and national authorities, flame retardants and fluorinated substances, and antibacterial additives incl. nanoparticles are forbidden.
  •  Implementation of a minimum of BAT (best available technology) water and energy efficiency techniques or local production of solar energy in textile production.
  • Test of the quality of the textile, e.g., dimensional change, color fastness and abrasion resistance.
  • Compliance with UN’s International Labour Organization (ILO) conventions on workers’ rights.

Two license types: One for the manufacturing and one for the products

As of version 5.0 of the requirements (effective as of March 1, 2022), there are two license types:

  • Manufacturing licence
  • Product licence

Each license type requires a separate application and has its own fees.

Manufacturing licence

As a rule, it will be the company behind the factory where the goods are produced that applies for a manufacturing licence, but it may also be the company that owns the brand. A manufacturing licence entitles the holder to produce goods for product licences within the product range specified in the manufacturing licence. However, a manufacturing licence does not give the right to ecolabel the produced goods or claim that they meet the requirements of the Nordic Swan Ecolabel.

The criteria for production facilities and processes can be found in the Nordic Ecolabelling portal. The product range is specified by declaring the goods in the Supply Chain Declaration Portal. The product area is defined, among other things, by product type, material and other inputs such as colour and buttons.

In the declaration of a product, the applicant specifies which components that are used for the individual item. The following components can be declared in the Supply Chain Declaration Portal by applicants and/or relevant subcontractors: Chemicals, fibre, yarn, fabric, accessories such as buttons, fillings and also leather.

Product licence, for brand/goods owners

To ecolabel clothes, bed linen, a belt or any other textile or leather product, you must apply for a product licence. In this case, the criteria that apply to products in the Nordic Ecolabelling Portal must be met. You must also specify which manufacturing licences the product licence should be based on.

  • Welcome to apply for a Nordic Swan Ecolabel licence!

    This is how you do:

    1. Read the application guide.
    2. Log in to the Nordic Ecolabelling Portal.
    3. Start your application.

     

    If this is the first time you are applying, the authorized signatory must fill in your company information and approve the application conditions. In this way, you get login to the portal and the right to assign access to other colleagues.

    Please note that you may have to contact your suppliers and ask them to declare items that are included in your product. Direct them to the "For suppliers" tab down below. 

     

    Request login

    To the Nordic Ecolabelling Portal

     

    Some special cases can not be done in the Nordic Ecolabelling Portal. Contact your advisor for such cases. More information can be found on "Application step by step".

  • 039 Manufacturing licence for clothes, textiles and leather

    Valid from January 1, 2025           

    (Amount excluding VAT)

    Type of fee

    Application for a new licence, including one on-site inspection within the Nordic region*

    3 348 EUR for production plant with up to 1 dyeing unit and 1
    printing unit.

    836 EUR for each additional dyeing or printing unit linked to the application
    Application of renewal

    1 673 EUR (Includes production plant with up to 1 dyeing unit and 1 printing unit)

    836 EUR for each additional dyeing or printing unit linked to the
    application.
    More than one inspection visit within the Nordic region* 557 EUR per visit
    Inspection visits in Europe** 1 673 EUR per visit
    Inspection visits outside Europe 2 790 EUR per visit
    Extension of exsisting licence*** < 4 hours: 418 EUR
    < 8 hours: 836 EUR
    ≥ 8 hours: 1 673 EUR
    Annual licence fee, global 2 232 EUR per year

     

    039 Manufacturing licence for clothes, textiles and leather

    Valid from January 1, 2024           

    (Amount excluding VAT)

    Type of fee

    Application for a new licence, including one on-site inspection within the Nordic region*

    3 251 EUR for production plant with up to 1 dyeing unit and 1
    printing unit.

    812 EUR for each additional dyeing or printing unit linked to the application
    Application of renewal

    1 625 EUR (Includes production plant with up to 1 dyeing unit and 1 printing unit)

    812 EUR for each additional dyeing or printing unit linked to the
    application.
    More than one inspection visit within the Nordic region* 541 EUR per visit
    Inspection visits in Europe** 1 625 EUR per visit
    Inspection visits outside Europe 2 709 EUR per visit
    Extension of exsisting licence*** < 4 hours: 406 EUR
    < 8 hours: 812 EUR
    ≥ 8 hours: 1 625 EUR
    Annual licence fee, global 2 167 EUR per year

     

     

    112 Product licence (brand owner) for clothes, textiles and leather

    Valid from January 1, 2025

    (Amount excluding VAT)

    Application fee

    New application 3 348 EUR
    Application for a renewed licence

    1 673 EUR

    Annual licence fee

    Annual licence fee, Nordics 0.15% of the products turnover in the Nordic countries up to 30.9 million EUR.
    0.05% of the turnover that exceeds 30.9 million EUR
    Minimum licence fee, Nordics 2 232 EUR per year
    Fixed fee that is added for sales outside the Nordic countries 2 232 EUR per year if the turnover exceeds 309 000 EUR of Nordic Swan Ecolabelled products,
    sold outside the Nordics

    Fee for extension/change of licence

    Fixed fee that is charged depending on how long the work takes.

    Up to 4 hours 418 EUR
    4–8 hours 836 EUR
    8 or more hours

    1 673 EUR

     

     

    112 Product licence (brand owner) for clothes, textiles and leather

    Valid from January 1, 2024   

    (Amount excluding VAT)

    Application fee

    New application 3 251 EUR
    Application for a renewed licence

    1 625 EUR

    Annual licence fee

    Annual licence fee, Nordics 0.15% of the products turnover in the Nordic countries up to 30 million EUR.
    0.05% of the turnover that exceeds 30 million EUR
    Minimum licence fee, Nordics 2 167 EUR per year
    Fixed fee that is added for sales outside the Nordic countries 2 167 EUR per year if the turnover exceeds 300 000 EUR of Nordic Swan Ecolabelled products,
    sold outside the Nordics

    Fee for extension/change of licence

    Fixed fee that is charged depending on how long the work takes.

    Up to 4 hours 406 EUR
    4–8 hours 812 EUR
    8 or more hours

    1 625 EUR

     


    * When both the applicant and the manufacturer are micro-enterprises, the fee is reduced by 50%. A micro-enterprise is in this context defined as an enterprise with less than 10 employees and an annual turnover (of both ecolabelled and not ecolabelled products) below 2 million EUR.

    ** Where audits requires more than one day away from the office including travelling, Nordic Ecolabelling can invoice an additional fee of 1 038 EUR per extra day. Other extraordinary costs induced by the audit can also be invoiced the applicant.

    *** As for an extension of or amendments to a licence, time consumed in connection with the review process will be invoiced according to the extent of the required task. We make a distinction between entirely administrative tasks that last less than 1 hour, and all other tasks that last between 1 and 4 hours, between 4 and 8 hours and more than 8 hours.

    The recipient is liable for the VAT according to article 56 of the Council Directive 2006/112/EC.
    All information given on this site is subject to a disclaimer for errors and omissions.

    • For new applications granted after 1 July, a fee reduction will apply for the first year. The minimum or maximum fee and any breakpoint will be multiplied by the result of the following formula: “number of remaining days in the year” x 2 / 365.
      Breakpoint = Turnover where the percentage changes in the calculation of licence fee.
      Minimum fee = the lowest licence fee Nordic ecolabelling annually invoices a company or a Group per product/ commodity group/ certifying country.

      Should a former holder of a license/registration continue to make use of the Nordic Ecolabel without being granted a new license/registration, the Nordic Ecolabelling organization reserves the right to claim financial compensation. The size of such compensation shall be equivalent to the turnover-based license fee that a licensee would have been required to pay for a license, and a financial penalty, the severity of which is determined by the extent and duration of the infringement as well as the damages that Nordic Ecolabelling may have incurred as a result of such misuse. Such a financial penalty should not normally be less than EUR 4,000 (four thousand). The Nordic Ecolabelling organizations may also take legal action against the infringement of the Nordic Ecolabel or if rules in the prevailing version of the Logo Guideline for the Nordic Ecolabel are not fulfilled.

    Fee regulations for Nordic Ecolabellling

  • By registering and declaring your company's items in our Supply Chain Declaration Portal, you help your customers when they apply for a Nordic Swan Ecolabel licence.

    By items we mean all kinds of products and materials, for example chemicals, laminates, glass or textiles.

    To the Supply Chain Declaration Portal

  • 5.5 ⇛ 5.6: Adjustment of criteria

    On 24 September 2024 Nordic Ecolabelling decided to adjust the following requirements:

    • O25 by deleting that producers of dissolving pulp must be specified
    • O27 part A by changing from 100% of the fibre production must be "closed loop" to 50%,
    • O31 by making it clear which requirements apply at the fibre production and which apply after fibre production,
    • O36 by adding exception for biocides against moth attacks on knitted wool products
    • O37 by allowing use of metal complex dyes and pigments based on copper on all fibre types
    • O62-O64 by allowing that Blue Angel certificate can be used as documentation.

    The new version is called 5.6.

    5.4 ⇛ 5.5: Adjustment of criteria

    On 21 November 2023 Nordic Ecolabelling decided to adjust requirement O96 by adding the possibility to use new alternative requirements O97 to O103 regarding Human Rights Due Diligence obligations. On 19 December 2023 Nordic Ecolabelling decided to adjust requirement O79 by allowing the textiles in dark colors have a color fastness to wet rubbing of at least level 2-3. On 27 February 2024 Nordic Ecolabelling decided to adjust requirement O46 with an exemption for hot-melt polyurethane adhesive containing methylene diphenyl diisocyanate (MDI) to be used for water-proof bed sheets. The new version is called 5.5.

    5.3 ⇛ 5.4: Prolongation of the validity of the criteria

    The criteria for Textiles 039 and 112 have been prolonged by 7 months until December 31, 2026.

    5.2 ⇛ 5.3: Adjustment of criteria

    Requirement O8 has been adjusted. Embroidery area of a total of max. 50 cm2 is exempt.

    The new version is called 5.3 and is valid until May 1, 2026.

    5.1 ⇛ 5.2: Adjustment of criteria

    In requirement O57 it was clarified that tests for 1,3-butadiene may only be carried out for synthetic latex. Furthermore the product type carpets has been removed from the criteria as these product types will be covered by product group 113 Textile floors and carpets.

    The new version is called 5.2 and is valid until May 1, 2026.

    5.0 ⇛ 5.1: Adjustment of criteria

    Adjustment of the following criteria:

    • Requirement O13 by adding Leather standard by Oeko-Tex
    • Requirement O14 by adding OCS 100 and OCS blended
    • Requirement O29 by adding Bonsucro standard
    • Requirement O70 by introduction of tests according to standard ISO/DIS 4484-1 and AATCCTM212
    • Requirement O93 where requirement for labels on plastic packaging have been deleted

    The new version is called 5.1 and is valid until 1 May 2026.

    5.0: New criteria generation

    The Nordic Ecolabelling Board has decided on a new generation. The new generation, 5.0, will take effect on 1 March 2022 and is valid until on 1 May 2026.

    4.14 ⇛ 4.15: Prolongation of the validity of the criteria

    Nordic Ecolabbetling decided on 3 May 2022 to prolong the validity of the criteria to the 31 December 2023. The new version is called 4.15.

    4.13 ⇛ 4.14: Prolongation of the validity of the criteria

    The validity of the criteria has been prolonged by 6 months to 31 May 2023. The new version is called 4.14.

    4.12 ⇛ 4.13: Prolongation of the validity of the criteria

    The validity of the criteria has been prolonged by 11 months to 30 November 2022. The new version is called 4.13.

    4.11 ⇛ 4.12: Prolongation of the validity of the criteria

    The validity of the criteria has been prolonged by 12 months to 31 December 2021. The new version is called 4.12.

    4.10 ⇛ 4.11: Adjustment of criteria

    Requirement O2 regarding metal in belts has been adjusted. The new version is called 4.11. 

    4.9 ⇛ 4.10: Adjustment of criteria

    Requirement O69 has been given a dimensional change for woven products for quilts and pillows. The new version is called 4.10. 

    4.8 ⇛ 4.9: Adjustment of criteria

    Adjustments have been made to requirements O2 and O82. The new version is called 4.9.

    4.7 ⇛ 4.8: Adjustment and prolongation of criteria

    It was decided to remove requirement O91 Recycling and return system. Furthermore the validity of the requirements has been prolonged with 24 months to 31 December 2020. The new version is called 4.8.

    4.6 ⇛ 4.7: Adjustment of criteria

    It was decided to implement Nordic Ecolabelling’s new forestry requirements as an alternative to the present forestry requirements. The new version is called 4.7.

    4.5 ⇛ 4.6: Adjustment of criteria

    An adjustment has been introduced to requirement O35 regarding the use of metal complex dyes for more fiber types. The new version is called 4.6.

    4.4 ⇛ 4.5: Adjustment of criteria

    An adjustment has been introduced to requirement O35 regarding the use of metal complex dyes. The new version is called 4.5.

    4.3 ⇛ 4.4: Adjustment of criteria

    Requirement O3 has been adjusted regarding glufosinate. The new version, 4.4, is valid until December 31st 2018.

    4.2 ⇛ 4.3: Adjustment and prolongation of criteria

    • Requirements R71 and R72 have been altered for indigo dyed denim.
    • The validity of the criteria has been prolonged with 24 months.

    The new version, 4.3, is valid until December 31st 2018.

    4.1 ⇛ 4.2: Adjustment of criteria

    • Requirement K31 regarding dyes, colorants and pigments has been adjusted.

    The new version, 4.2, is valid until December 31st 2016.

    4.0 ⇛ 4.1: Adjustment of criteria

    • Requirement K23, regarding heavy metals on details of the fabric, has been eased.
    • M8 - regarding marketing - has been removed.

    The new version, 4.1, is valid until December 31st 2016.

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